Saitek Throttle Quadrants Chattering, how to fix - service
Posted: 30 Apr 2017, 14:43
My Saitek throttle quadrants have been languishing unloved under my PC bench gathering dust for two years.
Not to mention being about 10 years old now I would guess.
They both had an issue where they would `chatter` with the FSX throttle juddering with any small movement of the controller.
Sometimes an inch of movement would cause the throttle to go from idle to full power and then just jigger about rendering the controller useless.
Note. At this point I did the usual things. Recalibrated. Tweaked FSX settings. Reinstalled the drivers. Wiggled them about a lot. Nothing fixed the issue.
Some Googling suggested this was due to the `pots` being dirty and needing cleaning.
So I decided to strip them apart
and have a go at fixing them.
You will need some screwdrivers. A torch preferably one you can wear or stick in your mouth
.
Some cotton buds and alcohol. I used IPA from Maplins which I use for model making.
1) First remove the G-Clamp from the controller by removing the four screws at the base. This reveals the base.
2) Remove the four screws in the base (use the torch to locate as there are more holes than screws). Two small and two long. The base simply pulls off.
Note the position of the cable. I ended up with the cable around the bottom on re-assembly. Not a disaster but requires some fettling to sit nicely.
3) Remove the three or four (seems my second controller had a factory mod with one screw missing) black screws from the circuit board. Push the buttons and the board pops out.
4) Now, using a long screwdriver remove the six screws holding the three controllers in place. Also remove the small grub screw underneath the controller holding the cable guard in place. I left the guard in situ (but with the screw removed otherwise the stalks wont come out) while I pulled out the controllers. The guard then comes free.
5) The controllers will not come all the way out. There is a small plastic bump on each stalk that you have to use brute force and push past the housing. It makes a horrid crack but seems to do no harm. It does mess with your OCD if you like nice fitting things though.
6) With the unit dissasembled make sure the stalks are in the max, full power positions (that's at the top). This will ensure the pots go back in their correct positions (very important).
I didn't bother to open the actual stalk housing. I opened one and all there is inside is a hole for the stalk and some grease. You can if you want open them and give them a clean.
7) Gently prise a pot, using a flat head screwdrive from one controller being careful to not break the wires. Do not remove the glue. This will help reseating the pot on reassembly.
Note the orientation of the slot. It is 5 - B. Very important! BTW if you get it B-5 the stalk will operate in reverse!
Gently push the centre out by pushing on the clips. It comes out very easy.
Note the `bump` which contacts the base. This bump must be re-fitted pointing at number five on the pot (assuming you followed this guide and the stalk was at max).
I didn't clean this part but I did gently tease the bump forward so it makes a better contact.
9) A dirty pot. Note the gunk. Dip a cotton bud in IPA and clean it until nice and clean.
10) A clean pot :-). You can now see the tracks.
11) Reasemble the pot making sure the bump is pointing at number five. Note the image below.
I got this wrong on one and the control operated in reverse.
Not a biggie just means you have to dissaemble again.
12) Gently re-insert the pot making sure again the stalk has not moved. It should click gently into place.
Reassembly is the reverse. Insert the stalks (making sure that a) they are not crossed over each other and b) the circuit board fits nicely without having to cross the wires). Force the stalks past their sticking points until the heartrenching crack! Insert the 6 screws. Insert the cable guard and grub screw. Screw the circuit board in place. Fiddle with the wires until the base place goes back without any resistance. Refit the G-Clamp.
This stage requires some coaxing to get the three controls fitting nicely. When you hit the sweat spot it's very satisfying. Just expect 10 minutes of frustration and head scratching.
Don't force them.
13) Now hope you got the pots correct. Run joy.cpl and re-calibrate.
Both my two throttle quadrants work pefectly
Probably better than they did before.
I am a very happy simmer again.
Ted.
Not to mention being about 10 years old now I would guess.
They both had an issue where they would `chatter` with the FSX throttle juddering with any small movement of the controller.
Sometimes an inch of movement would cause the throttle to go from idle to full power and then just jigger about rendering the controller useless.
Note. At this point I did the usual things. Recalibrated. Tweaked FSX settings. Reinstalled the drivers. Wiggled them about a lot. Nothing fixed the issue.
Some Googling suggested this was due to the `pots` being dirty and needing cleaning.
So I decided to strip them apart
and have a go at fixing them.You will need some screwdrivers. A torch preferably one you can wear or stick in your mouth
.Some cotton buds and alcohol. I used IPA from Maplins which I use for model making.
1) First remove the G-Clamp from the controller by removing the four screws at the base. This reveals the base.
2) Remove the four screws in the base (use the torch to locate as there are more holes than screws). Two small and two long. The base simply pulls off.
Note the position of the cable. I ended up with the cable around the bottom on re-assembly. Not a disaster but requires some fettling to sit nicely.
3) Remove the three or four (seems my second controller had a factory mod with one screw missing) black screws from the circuit board. Push the buttons and the board pops out.
4) Now, using a long screwdriver remove the six screws holding the three controllers in place. Also remove the small grub screw underneath the controller holding the cable guard in place. I left the guard in situ (but with the screw removed otherwise the stalks wont come out) while I pulled out the controllers. The guard then comes free.
5) The controllers will not come all the way out. There is a small plastic bump on each stalk that you have to use brute force and push past the housing. It makes a horrid crack but seems to do no harm. It does mess with your OCD if you like nice fitting things though.
6) With the unit dissasembled make sure the stalks are in the max, full power positions (that's at the top). This will ensure the pots go back in their correct positions (very important).
I didn't bother to open the actual stalk housing. I opened one and all there is inside is a hole for the stalk and some grease. You can if you want open them and give them a clean.
7) Gently prise a pot, using a flat head screwdrive from one controller being careful to not break the wires. Do not remove the glue. This will help reseating the pot on reassembly.
Note the orientation of the slot. It is 5 - B. Very important! BTW if you get it B-5 the stalk will operate in reverse!
Gently push the centre out by pushing on the clips. It comes out very easy.
Note the `bump` which contacts the base. This bump must be re-fitted pointing at number five on the pot (assuming you followed this guide and the stalk was at max).
I didn't clean this part but I did gently tease the bump forward so it makes a better contact.
9) A dirty pot. Note the gunk. Dip a cotton bud in IPA and clean it until nice and clean.
10) A clean pot :-). You can now see the tracks.
11) Reasemble the pot making sure the bump is pointing at number five. Note the image below.
I got this wrong on one and the control operated in reverse.
Not a biggie just means you have to dissaemble again.12) Gently re-insert the pot making sure again the stalk has not moved. It should click gently into place.
Reassembly is the reverse. Insert the stalks (making sure that a) they are not crossed over each other and b) the circuit board fits nicely without having to cross the wires). Force the stalks past their sticking points until the heartrenching crack! Insert the 6 screws. Insert the cable guard and grub screw. Screw the circuit board in place. Fiddle with the wires until the base place goes back without any resistance. Refit the G-Clamp.
This stage requires some coaxing to get the three controls fitting nicely. When you hit the sweat spot it's very satisfying. Just expect 10 minutes of frustration and head scratching.
Don't force them.
13) Now hope you got the pots correct. Run joy.cpl and re-calibrate.
Both my two throttle quadrants work pefectly
Probably better than they did before.I am a very happy simmer again.
Ted.
